In most vintages the wine is fermented to just off-dry (in 2021 it has about 26 grams residual sugar per liter with 10.8g of acid), and it has a balanced taste. The wine has a curvy and ephemeral feel, and the taste is layered, complex, richly textural, and smells of fermentation, pears, quince, spice, flowers, and rocks with a rustic spritzy energy. It’s pure deliciousness.
It’s like being in a time machine being sent back to a cooler world. The estate’s collection, particularly the Riesling “Hermann,” is considered exceptional and will go down in history as one of the finest from the traditional winery. The uncompromising style of the wines embraces acidity and finesse, resulting in vibrant and aromatic wines with great depth, even at the entry level. The wines are reminiscent of a blend between Joh. Joh. Prüm’s early backwardness and Hofgut Falkenstein’s zing, while still maintaining the delicacy and finesse of both estates. Although the wines have a distinct old-school character and residual scents from spontaneous fermentation, they are expected to be even more exceptional in 8-12 years.
The “Hermann” – named after both the founder as well as his first-born son, the current proprietor along with his nephew Julian – is the “basic” wine. Interestingly, the family has some flatland vineyards (previously these fields were where the animals grazed, back in the times of poly-agriculture) some of which have slightly more interesting gravelly soils. In good years, the estate may use 10-15% of the top parcels of the flat vineyards to fill out the Hermann; otherwise it is all steep-slope vineyards from Thörnich, of course, but also from Klüsserath – they own half a hectare in the Klüsserath Bruderschaft.